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On Costumes

  • Aug. 10th, 2008 at 12:55 PM
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The article linked to in the previous post, about three British housewives who pretend they are living in the 1930s, the 1940s or the 1950s, got me to thinking.

In some ways, what these women are doing is harmless. It affects no one but themselves and their spouses (the article does not mention children) and certainly, if you want to cinch an apron around your waist and spend your afternoons baking pinwheel cookies, that is your business. I personally find this creepy as all fuck, but that is merely my opinion.

And certainly, they are not the only adults who wear costumes. A medievalist colleague of mine attended the annual International Congress on Medieval Studies at Western Michigan University last year. I have it from her that something like thirty percent of the people who turn up at these things are members of the Society for Creative Anachronism. This conference includes a reception and dance, and apparently it is at this point that the capes usually come out.

Sometimes, the play-acting is for educational purposes. When I was twelve, my grade school's gifted program hosted a speaker. She arrived dressed as a rural Elizabethan woman, and told us all about life in sixteenth-century England, from clothing, to dentistry, to marriage patterns, to churchgoing. Then, she changed into a court costume and regaled us with stories about Elizabeth's court. It was fun -- she knew how to make twelve-year-olds laugh and giggle and occasionally squirm -- although I now know that some of what she told us was inaccurate. Elizabethans, you may be surprised to know, tended to marry in their twenties, not their early teens.

I have engaged in this kind of business myself. When I was sixteen, I worked for two weeks aboard the Lady Washington, a re-creation of a late eighteenth-century merchant vessel. We sailed around Elliott Bay four times each day, three hours at a time, and those who bought tickets to come aboard could watch how the rigging system was used (we really did sail the thing - it's pretty awesome) and ask questions. All us girls had to dress as boys in baggy button-up breeches and baggy sailor shirts, and bandannas over our hair. There were limits to historical verisimilitude, of course. We wore safety clips when climbing up in the rigging, and one favorite activity was to fire the cannon (yes, we had a cannon. It was little, and it was never loaded) when we passed a certain waterfront parking garage, to see if we could get the car alarms to go off.

Sometimes, historical re-enactment is not so innocent. Occasionally, it can bleed into an unhealthy fetishism of particular events, or ideas. This is sometimes the case with those who re-enact the American Civil War. Now, I have nothing against Civil War re-enactors. The vast majority of these men and women are perfectly sane and pleasant people having good clean fun with calico and muskets.

But there are a few who are neither sane, nor particularly pleasant. I suspect I need not elaborate here, and I refer you to Tony Horwitz's wonderful book, Confederates in the Attic (Vintage, 1999).

The point is, sometimes a fascination with the past bleeds into the obsessive. In the case of both unrepentant Confederates and the women mentioned above, the motive seems in part to be a desire for the perceived clarity and simplicity of the past. The modern world is complex, and (as one of the women suggested when she said she never read newspapers) frightening. As is not the case with the past, we do not know how it will turn out.

Or, if you are an unrepentant Confederate, you do know how it will turn out, and the thrill is the possibility of pretending that one, the issue is still undecided and two, most of the consequences are someone else's fault. If you are still fighting the Battle of Gettysburg, the bewildering post-war interaction of racism, systemic corruption and economic underdevelopment is not your problem. Either way, we have achieved moral clarity.

The trouble with this, of course, is that although you can find the simplicity you crave at a re-enactment of Antietam, or in your kitchen, you are not really learning anything. In fact, you are trying deliberately not to learn anything. You may acquire vast knowledge about tea services, or grapeshot, or the various battleflags of the Confederacy, but your understanding of the Great Depression, or the political thought of antebellum America, or the politics of the modern American South, is perhaps not changing very much. There is a vast difference between history and ideologically motivated antiquarianism.

The past, after all, is not simple. It appears simple, sometimes, but anything can appear simple from a sufficient distance. The middle ages often appear simple to me, because I am not a medievalist, and what I know about the middle ages would fit, easily, in a well-worn antique thimble. I am aware, though, that this simplicity is an optical illusion.

I think the key difference here is that when I was getting tar on my feet and learning how to splice rope, or when my friend's medievalist colleagues don capes and cut the rug in Kalamazoo, or when your average Civil War re-enactor struggles into an army uniform or a hoopskirt, the fun lies in the awareness of the distinction between our selves and the clothes we are wearing. It is a type of creative tension. The play is self-conscious, and (as is not the case in some other circumstances) here the self-consciousness is both useful and desirable. Even if you are an SCA member deliberately attempting to lose yourself in a character, the fact that you are attempting distance from yourself in the first place is the whole point of the exercise. Neither I nor (most) medievalists want to wear capes, or sailor breeches, all the time.

I think that's it, right there. In order for costume play to be meaningful, or instructive, the costume has to remain precisely that - a costume.

Comments

[info]handworn wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 06:38 pm (UTC)
Yes, the "bloaters." Creepy.

The whole reenacting thing also reminds me of something G.K. Chesterton once wrote. "In the heart of all this rowdiness," he said of men among men, "there is a sort of mad modesty, a desire to melt the separate soul into the mass of unpretentious masculinity." In reenacting, there's something of that sort. A desire to melt the modern self away to see who you are underneath, perhaps.
[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:10 pm (UTC)
That's an interesting point. In some cases, people want to melt the modern self away because they resent what (as they see it) the modern world has done to them. But in other cases, I suppose the question would be, can there be a version of oneself that is separate from one's own historical context? Would I be me if I'd been born in 1679 rather than 1979? And so on. Which I'm guessing is part of the fun of re-enactments. It's a philosophy game as well as a history game.
[info]handworn wrote:
Aug. 11th, 2008 12:12 am (UTC)
"History is philosophy, with examples."

-- Dionysius of Halicarnassus
[info]knittingknots wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 06:45 pm (UTC)
My husband has a response for those who get too into their period: "Who's gonna have Smallpox today? And who gets the dysentery?"

I just reenact as an excuse to do deep level social and cultural history. Oh, and an excuse to buy more craft materials. It's always a costume to me.

Edited at 2008-08-10 06:46 pm (UTC)
[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:04 pm (UTC)
I wondered a similar thing about the couple who pretend to live in the 1930s - do they refuse penicillin?
[info]knittingknots wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 09:23 pm (UTC)
Indeed...

Would they really say: "No, Doctor, you can't treat me with any medicine or procedure that was invented after 1935...."

That sounds like grounds to bring in the mental health people!


I spend a lot of mental time in Japan of the mid 16th century and in Pennsylvania of about 1785, but at least I know I'm just a tourist.
[info]myid wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 07:08 pm (UTC)
The comment about newspapers and fear is interesting, since I think that what motivates these people to play their roles is their fear of performing inadequately as a member of society. It's easier for them to live in the past because then they don't have to take responsibility for their roles in the present. They've exempted themselves from reality.

Hi, I'm going to add you because your journal is damn interesting. (I'm from history_nerds)
[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:18 pm (UTC)
I hadn't thought about the fear of inadequacy aspect - that's a good point. If they live in a simplified version of the past, where all the rules are laid out in bold type, it's much clearer how to act, and what to do. Less anxiety - and less responsibility.

And I'm glad you like the journal - thanks!
[info]vashtan wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 07:12 pm (UTC)
I find that very amusing. The thirties must have been great in the teeth of global recession and post-WWI. The thirties? Well, as long as *we* don't have to take all the Jews in that get slaughtered. The fifties? Nevermind the A-bomb. All peachy. Nothing scary at all.

*headdesks*
[info]jasferg1 wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 07:55 pm (UTC)
If these people are in Britain, perhaps they long for the air raids to return, or maybe the neighbours have some annoying kids they want to send to the countryside, never to return.
[info]vashtan wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:09 pm (UTC)
Good point. Or follow the radio reports on Dunkirk. So much fun. So secure and splendid.

[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:06 pm (UTC)
Yeah, I know. It's history reduced to clothing, pointy shoes, blenders and antimacassars - sort of like reducing the civil war to uniforms and topography maps.
[info]vashtan wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:08 pm (UTC)
Can you imagine what that type will, in 40+ years, do with *our* current time period?
[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:14 pm (UTC)
Scary thought. But it occurs to me that I should save all my shoes, dishes and costume jewelry - I'll fund my retirement selling them to couples who want to pretend, full-time, that they are living in the wonderful world of America in 2008.
[info]vashtan wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:15 pm (UTC)
Ugh. Actually, I wonder if there's a short story in there somewhere...
[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 10:49 pm (UTC)
That one's all yours - it's a little too close to home for me, I think.
[info]vashtan wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 10:57 pm (UTC)
I'll think about it. At the moment I'm being eaten by other things. :)
[info]jasferg1 wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 07:51 pm (UTC)
Perhaps for these people who really alter their lives to fit the time period they want to be in, we can bring back all the problems of those days, since our modern world is so much worse. If they are going to live in the past, they need to go the whole way.

Civil War re-enactors don't amputate the legs of those wounded in the re-enactment of the battle, but they also know that they are not going to live on the battlefield in that role forever. When the battle is over, they go home. They are not attempting to exist in the past.
[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:01 pm (UTC)
I agree, most Civil War re-enactors are just having fun, and they go home afterward. The ones I was criticizing were the obsessive ones, who (even when they go home) never leave the war behind, often out of unreasonable resentment with the present. Horwitz's book is good, I think, because it offers a really insightful and sympathetic look into how people get to that state of mind.
[info]jasferg1 wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 08:08 pm (UTC)
I haven't read Horowitz, but I find it intriguing that they cannot leave behind a war in which neither they nor their great-grandparents could have possibly fought.

How bad is their present that they have to retreat to 1864?
[info]knittingknots wrote:
Aug. 10th, 2008 09:16 pm (UTC)
If you lived in the deep South in the 1950s and 60s, you would realize Southrons (as I call the Southern version of such types) aren't really reliving the 1860s. They just mask the social change that followed in the wake of the 1960s in Victorian drag.

You find them from time to time in genealogy circles, too, not just reenactment circles.

Don't know why anybody would want to relive the 1930s, though, myself.
[info]baltimoreandme wrote:
Aug. 11th, 2008 12:39 am (UTC)
I think [info]knittingknots brings up a good point, that the civil war is a stand-in for a lot of other things. If you feel like the modern world (the federal government, international trade, civil rights, etc.) is jerking you around, it's probably very easy to pick up the Civil War as a sort of symbol, and cast the ante-bellum south as the golden days before everything went wrong. This permits the blaming of the usual suspects -- the federal government, outsiders, liberals, activists, etc.

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